Transylvanian Alps, Romania
羅馬尼亞，特蘭西瓦尼亞阿爾卑斯山脈
A celebration of old-growth forests in Europe
贊美歐洲的古老森林
To experience a piece of real wilderness without having to go to the ends of the earth, look no further than Romania. Of all the old-growth primary forest that remains in Europe, 65 percent of it is there. These forests, home to bears, wolves and an incredible array of flora and fauna besides, are found all around the country, but you could do worse than head to the Southern Carpathian Mountains, also known as the Transylvanian Alps, for the full experience. A visit to the Domogled-Valea Cernei National Park, or the Fagaras mountain ranges farther east, offers thousands of acres of truly untouched nature alongside opportunities for hiking, camping, swimming under waterfalls and more. Romania’s very decent roads (one of which, the Transfagarasan, is a destination in itself for motoring enthusiasts) make it possible to reach all of this, even on shorter trips. There’s never been a more important moment to see and celebrate these forests: Despite the efforts of conservationists including Britain’s Prince Charles, who called them “a priceless natural treasure in a continent that has long since destroyed most of its wildernesses,” logging continues, some of it illegal. Travelers coming in greater numbers could have a real impact, sending the message that these trees are worth more alive than dead.
想要體驗真正的荒野而不必走到天涯海角，只需選擇羅馬尼亞即可。歐洲現(xiàn)有的原始森林有65%都存在于此。這些森林不僅是熊和狼的家園，也有數(shù)量驚人的動植物群，在全國各地都能找到它們的蹤跡，但你若想體驗完整的森林之旅，沒什么比前往南喀爾巴阡山脈(也被稱為特蘭西瓦尼亞阿爾卑斯山脈)更合適的了。到Domogled-Valea Cernei國家公園，或在東邊更遠的弗格拉什山脈，那里有數(shù)千英畝真正的原始自然風光，還有徒步旅行、露營、在瀑布下游泳等等樂趣。羅馬尼亞非常像樣的公路(其中一條叫做川斯發(fā)格拉山[Transfagarasan]公路，本身就是機車愛好者的目的地)讓即便是短途旅行的游客也能夠抵達以上所有地方。沒有比當下更重要的時刻來觀賞和贊美這些森林了：盡管環(huán)保人士做出了努力，英國查爾斯王子還稱其為“一個早已摧毀了大部分荒野的大陸上的無價之寶”，但砍伐仍在繼續(xù)，其中一些還是非法。大量游客的到來可能會帶來真正的影響，傳遞這樣的信息，即這些樹活著比死了更有價值。
Urbino, Italy
意大利，烏爾比諾
Celebrate the life and work of one of Italy’s greatest Renaissance artists
贊頌文藝復興時期意大利最偉大藝術(shù)家之一的人生和作品
This year marks the 500thr anniversary of Raphael’s death. One of Italy’s greatest Renaissance painters, Raphael lived in Urbino — in a perfectly preserved house just down the street from romantic Piazza di San Francesco. On the first floor is one of his first frescoes. In the 15th century, the house was a gathering place for some of the best artists and writers from around Italy. A show displaying some of Raphael’s greatest works in context with some other Renaissance artists began in October at Urbino’s Galleria Nazionale delle Marche and continues through Jan. 19. From April through the end of 2020, the city will hold trade shows, conferences and spaces dedicated to literature and dance. Today, Urbino’s artistic vibe is alive and well. In addition to boasting one of the world’s oldest universities (the University of Urbino was founded in 1506), Urbino is also considered Italy’s book capital because of its Institute for Book Decoration and Illustration. There’s a jazz festival in August. A walled city on a hill with numerous views of the underrated countryside of Le Marche, Urbino has everything Tuscany has — but at half the price and with half the tourists.
今年是拉斐爾逝世500周年。作為文藝復興時期意大利最偉大的畫家之一，拉斐爾就生活在烏爾比諾——一處位于浪漫的圣弗朗西斯科廣場(Piazza di San Francesco)附近的保存完好的房子里。一樓就有他最早的壁畫作品之一。在15世紀，這座房子是意大利各地最優(yōu)秀的一些藝術(shù)家和作家的聚會地。今年10月，位于烏爾比諾的馬爾凱國家美術(shù)館(Galleria Nazionale delle Marche)將展出拉斐爾一些最偉大的作品，并和其他文藝復興時期的藝術(shù)家作品放在一起，展覽將持續(xù)到明年1月19日。從4月到年底，該市將舉辦貿(mào)易展會、論壇峰會和專為文學和舞蹈設(shè)置的公共空間。今天，烏爾比諾的藝術(shù)氛圍充滿活力。除了擁有世界上最古老的大學之一(烏爾比諾大學建于1506年)，因為圖書裝飾與插圖研究所(Institute for Book Decoration and Illustration)，烏爾比諾還被認為是意大利的圖書之都。8月這里將舉辦一場爵士音樂節(jié)。作為一座坐落于山上的城墻都市，被低估的馬爾凱(Le Marche)鄉(xiāng)村風光在這里一覽無余，烏爾比諾擁有托斯卡納所有的一切——但消費水平和游客數(shù)量都只有他的一半。
Glacier National Park and Whitefish, Mont.
蒙大拿州，冰川國家公園和白魚鎮(zhèn)
A changing landscape in a warming world
變暖的世界里一處正在變化的風景
When Glacier National Park was created in 1910, there were 150 glaciers; today, only 25 still exist. As harsh winters and scorching summers continue to change the landscape of the park, it still offers jaw-dropping natural beauty, with 762 lakes, 175 mountains, 200-plus waterfalls and more than 700 miles of trails. And this summer will see the reopening of the Sperry Chalet, a beloved century-old wilderness lodge that’s been rebuilt after a destructive wildfire in 2017. To enjoy the nearly $9 million reconstruction of the 17-room dormitory, be prepared to make a reservation months in advance and then plan for a rugged hike up the side of a mountain to get there. While the chalet and other historic lodges are great base camps, those wanting to stay closer to civilization should head to Whitefish, an old railroad stop turned resort town, about 30 minutes west. Award-winning restaurants like Cafe Kandahar and boutique lodgings such as the Firebrand Hotel have opened in recent years, but this lakeside town still maintains its frontier spirit.
冰川國家公園(Glacier National Park)在1910年建成時，擁有150處冰川;今天，只剩下25處。雖然冬季嚴寒和夏季酷暑繼續(xù)改變著公園景觀，但它的自然之美仍令人瞠目結(jié)舌，有762處湖泊、175座山脈、200多個瀑布和超過700英里的游人路徑。今年夏天，斯佩里小屋(Sperry Chalet)將重新開放，這是一處有百年歷史的受人喜愛的荒野小屋，2017年被野火燒毀后進行了重建。要想體驗這耗資900萬美元重建而成的擁有17個房間的宿舍，你得提前幾個月預訂，還要計劃一次崎嶇的登山之旅才能抵達。雖然小屋和其他歷史悠久的旅舍是很棒的住宿營地，但更想接近文明的人應該前往白魚鎮(zhèn)(Whitefish)，一座由鐵路車站發(fā)展而來的度假小鎮(zhèn)，從公園向西大約30分鐘車程即可抵達。像Cafe Kandahar這樣屢獲殊榮的餐廳，以及Firebrand Hotel等精品酒店近年來紛紛開業(yè)，但這座湖濱小鎮(zhèn)仍保持了它的拓荒精神。
注：雙語全文源自紐約時報中文網(wǎng)
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