橋中識巴黎

Knowing Paris by Its Bridges

　　Sometimes, when sleep eludes me in the dark hour before dawn, I make my way to the Pont de la Tournelle, the 400-foot bridge that links the Île Saint-Louis to Paris’s Left Bank. I plant myself at its midpoint, face west and wait. Before me is the skeletal back of Notre-Dame, shrouded in darkness.

　　有時(shí)，我在黎明前的黑暗中醒來，不能再入睡時(shí)，我會走上都爾奈勒橋，這座122米長的橋把巴黎左岸與圣路易島連接起來。我站在橋中央，面向西等待著，面前是籠罩在黑暗中的圣母院后部的輪廓。

　　I watch as the sky moves from blue-black to deep blue velvet to soft gray, then light blue. The delicate architectural details of the cathedral gradually reveal themselves, until finally, the early morning sun bathes them in warm orange hues.

　　隨著天空從藍(lán)黑變成深藍(lán)色的天鵝絨、再到柔和的灰色、直到淡藍(lán)，大教堂精致的建筑細(xì)節(jié)在我眼前逐漸顯現(xiàn)，直到清晨的陽光令它們最終沐浴在溫暖的橙色中。

　　The back side of Notre-Dame is the creation of Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc, the young architect in charge of the cathedral’s restoration in the 19th century. It looks nothing like the grandiose main entrance, whose hundreds of Medieval stone carvings make it one of the most recognizable images of Paris around the world.

　　圣母院的后部是尤金·伊曼紐爾·維歐勒-勒-杜克(Eugene Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc)的創(chuàng)作，這位年輕的建筑師是負(fù)責(zé)大教堂19世紀(jì)修復(fù)工作的人。從后面看，大教堂與其華麗的正面截然不同，正門成百上千的中世紀(jì)石雕使大教堂成為巴黎在世界上最易于識別的形象之一。

　　The view from behind is different from what it was just a few months ago. During the great fire of April 15, 2019, the cathedral lost the spire that Viollet-le-Duc erected, and sections of the roof are hidden under protective scaffolding. But the structure still shows its splendor at night, the flat, dark silhouette of its flying buttresses visible through the trees.

　　后面的景象與幾個月前已經(jīng)大不相同。在2019年4月15日的那場大火中，大教堂失去了維歐勒-勒-杜克建造的尖頂，部分屋頂現(xiàn)在已被保護(hù)性腳手架遮蓋起來。但在夜間，這個結(jié)構(gòu)仍保留著它的光彩，夜里，大教堂飛扶壁的平坦黑色輪廓透過樹枝依稀可見。

　　I am never alone when I come here. Sitting atop a tall, stark pylon on the southeastern bank of the bridge is the 1928 statue of Sainte Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. The fifth-century saint is portrayed as a young woman, her hands on the shoulders of a child who represents the city. During her lifetime, Geneviève predicted that Attila and his Mongol hordes would spare Paris from massacre and destruction; after she was proved right, she was heralded as the savior of Paris. These days, she looks out on the water — and perhaps down on me — like a silent protector.

　　我在橋上從來都不孤獨(dú)。橋東南岸一個巍然兀立的高大塔架頂端，是1928年修建的巴黎守護(hù)神圣日內(nèi)維耶(Sainte Genevieve)的雕像。這個五世紀(jì)的圣女以一名年輕女性的形象出現(xiàn)，她把雙手放在一個象征巴黎的孩子的肩上。日內(nèi)維耶在有生之年曾預(yù)言，阿提拉及其率領(lǐng)的蒙古部落將會放過巴黎，使其免于屠殺和毀滅;在她的預(yù)言被證明正確后，她被封為巴黎的救星。這些日子里，她像一名默默的保護(hù)者那樣看著河水——也許也看著我。

　　The Seine begins to awaken at dawn. The first barges of the morning move downstream. The river police begin their patrols in fast-moving inflatable boats. The garbage trucks rumble along the quays picking up the refuse from the revelry the night before. Dogs bark. Crows caw.

　　塞納河在黎明時(shí)分醒來。清晨的第一艘駁船順流而下。河警乘著快速移動的充氣船開始巡邏。垃圾車在碼頭邊的路上隆隆作響，把狂歡作樂的人群頭天晚上丟下的垃圾運(yùn)走。狗吠。烏鴉發(fā)出聒噪的叫聲。

　　I have found on the Pont de la Tournelle a special place and time in which to make Paris my own.

　　我在都爾奈勒橋上找到了一個特殊的地點(diǎn)和時(shí)刻，讓巴黎完全屬于我自己。

　　All that contemplation whets my appetite, and from here, I walk along the quay on the Left Bank until I reach Le Depart Saint-Michel, a 24-hour café-brasserie. A touristy place to avoid at lunch and dinner, it is a great place for people-watching over an omelet and an espresso at early rush hour and a fitting way to savor the magic of a Seine River bridge at dawn.

　　想太多想到肚子餓，從這里，我沿著左岸的駁岸，來到Le Depart Saint-Michel，這是一家全天營業(yè)的咖啡館/小酒館。午餐和晚餐時(shí)間要避開這里，因?yàn)槿�是游客，但在早高峰的時(shí)候，這里是點(diǎn)上一份煎蛋卷和濃縮咖啡，坐下來看著往來路人的好去處，也是在黎明時(shí)分領(lǐng)略塞納河的橋所散發(fā)魔力的好地方。

　　Study Paris through its bridges, and you have a mosaic of the city’s history and architecture.

　　通過橋研究巴黎，將這座城市的歷史和建筑如馬賽克一般拼接起來。

　　There are 35 bridges crossing the eight-mile span from one end of Paris to the other, starting at the Pont National upstream to the Pont du Garigliano, the last bridge as the river moves to the sea (the number is 37 if you count the Boulevard Périphérique, the utilitarian highway that rings the city and crosses the river upstream at Charenton/Bercy and downstream at Saint-Cloud/Issy).

　　從巴黎的一端到另一端，8英里的范圍里有35座橋，從上游的國家橋(Pont National)到塞納河入海前的最后一座橋——加里利亞諾橋(Pont du Garigliano)。若是算上在上游的沙朗通/貝西和下游的圣克盧/伊西兩次跨越塞納河的環(huán)城大道(Boulevard Périphérique)，則有37座橋。

　　Unesco celebrates 23 of the city’s bridges in its designation of the banks of the Seine — from the Pont de Sully, near Notre-Dame Cathedral to the Pont d’Iéna, at the Eiffel Tower — as a World Heritage cultural site.

　　從巴黎圣母院附近的蘇利橋(Pont de Sully)到埃菲爾鐵塔附近的耶拿橋(Pont d’Iéna)，聯(lián)合國教科文組織(Unesco)將塞納河上的23座橋列入了世界文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。

　　The bridges stretch themselves over the river as if they are posing for passers-by. Every one of them has its own story, structure, purpose and character. Four are footbridges; two carry Metro trains. Twenty-six welcome both motorists and pedestrians; three are even more ambitious, with car and pedestrian lanes and Metro or tram tracks.

　　橋在河上舒展開來，好像為路人擺好了姿勢。它們每一個都有自己的故事、構(gòu)造、目的和性格。其中4座人行橋，2座走地鐵。26座橋既走車也走人，有3座野心更大，走車走人不說，還走地鐵或有軌電車。

　　Indeed, there is only one way to discover the bridges of Paris: on foot. With good walking shoes, you can make it east to west, from the first to the last bridge, in a day, stopping for lunch at a riverside cafe midway.

　　的確，要想探索巴黎的橋，只有一個辦法：步行。穿上一雙舒適的徒步鞋，你可以用一天的時(shí)間從東走到西，從第一座橋走到最后一座橋，中午在河邊找家咖啡館吃午飯。

　　A bridge named for Simone de Beauvoir

　　一座以西蒙·德·波伏娃命名的橋

　　I recommend starting at Paris’s newest bridge, a pedestrian span built in 2006 and named after the 20th-century feminist, novelist, and philosopher Simone de Beauvoir, slightly downstream of the Périphérique’s crossing at Charenton/Bercy. Asymmetrical and eclectic, it is an arched and suspension bridge in one; it has no pillars or visible supports, although it stretches over one of the widest stretches of the Seine.

　　我建議你從巴黎最新的一座橋開始，這座人行橋建于2006年，以20世紀(jì)的女權(quán)主義者、小說家和哲學(xué)家(Simone de Beauvoir)命名，位于環(huán)城公路在沙朗通/貝西跨越塞納河之處再往下游走一點(diǎn)的地方。它不拘一格，追求不對稱的效果，集拱橋與懸索橋于一體;雖然跨越塞納河最寬的一段，卻看不見任何橋墩或者支撐物。

　　The heart of Paris is still the Île de la Cité, the island in the middle of the river where Paris was created in ancient times. There, at the foot of the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), is the Pont d’Arcole, the site of the last scene of the 2003 film “Something’s Gotta Give.” Jack Nicholson, thinking he has lost Diane Keaton, stumbles out of a restaurant near the Hôtel de Ville and onto the bridge. An accordionist plays “La vie en rose.” A tourist boat aglow in white lights cruises below him. He gets teary-eyed. It starts to snow. She arrives in a taxi to confess that she still loves him. He tells her, “If it’s true, my life just got made …. I’m 63 years old, and I’m in love — for the first time in my life.” They kiss.

　　巴黎的中心仍然是西岱島(Île de la Cité)，這個位于河中的小島是古代巴黎的發(fā)源地。在那里，阿爾科萊橋(Pont d’Arcole)就在市政廳的腳下，2003年的電影《愛是妥協(xié)》(Something’s Gotta Give)的最后一幕就是在這里拍攝的。杰克·尼科爾森(Jack Nicholson)以為自己失去了黛安·基頓(Diane Keaton)，跌跌撞撞地走出市政廳附近的一家餐廳，上了橋。一個手風(fēng)琴演奏者在彈奏《玫瑰人生》(La vie en rose)。橋下是一艘閃閃發(fā)光的游船駛過。他淚眼婆娑。天上開始飄雪。她坐著出租車趕來，承認(rèn)自己仍然愛著他。他對她說，“如果真是這樣，我的生活才剛剛開始……我今年63歲，我戀愛了——有生以來的第一次�！彼麄兾窃谝黄�。

　　Even the most fantastic love scenes in the movies seem plausible standing on a Parisian bridge.

　　站在巴黎的橋上，即使電影中最夢幻的愛情場景也顯得真實(shí)可信。

　　Nearby, the Pont Saint-Louis connects the Île de la Cité and the smaller Île Saint-Louis. It is a short, unexceptional bridge, but serves as an intimate stage for musicians, especially Americans playing jazz, jugglers, actors and mime artists.

　　附近的圣路易橋連接著西岱島和較小的圣路易島。這座橋很短，沒有什么特別之處，但它是音樂家們，尤其是美國爵士樂手、以及雜耍者、演員和啞劇藝人的私享舞臺。

　　A half a mile west is Paris’s oldest bridge, paradoxically named the Pont-Neuf, the “new bridge” at the tip of the Île de la Cité, and more or less the center point of the Seine’s course through the city. A 17th-century triumph of design and technology, it was the first bridge in Paris to be built entirely of stone and featured pedestrian walkways. It was built without the houses that lined earlier bridges and cluttered the views. In constructing it through and on both sides of the island, Henri IV created an intimate, permanent bond between Parisians and the lifeblood of their city, the Seine.

　　往西半英里是巴黎最古老的橋，矛盾的是，它的名字卻叫做“新橋”(Pont-Neuf)，它位于西岱島一端，差不多在塞納河流經(jīng)這座城市的中點(diǎn)。這座橋建于17世紀(jì)，堪稱設(shè)計(jì)與技術(shù)上的巨大成功，它是巴黎第一座完全由石頭建造的橋，兩側(cè)設(shè)有人行道，并且沒有早期橋梁上那些令周遭景色雜亂不堪的房屋。這座橋由亨利四世下令修建，將西岱島和左右兩岸連接起來，為巴黎人和城市的命脈塞納河建立了親密的永久性紐帶。

　　This bond still exists. Behind a statue of Henri IV on the bridge are staircases that descend two flights. They open out onto a spit of land at the westernmost tip of the Île de la Cité, the Square du Vert-Galant. Unlike most Paris parks, it is open to the public all night long. When the river is high, the branches of the weeping willow planted in cobblestones at the tip of the square caress the surface of the Seine. You can come close enough to reach out and touch the water.

　　這個紐帶至今仍在。橋上亨利四世雕像的后面有兩段下行的樓梯。它們通向西岱島最西端的一塊區(qū)域，即綠色戈蘭廣場。與大多數(shù)巴黎公園不同的是，它徹夜對公眾開放。河水上漲時(shí)，廣場一側(cè)的鵝卵石堤岸邊，垂柳樹枝輕撫著塞納河水面。你可以走上前去，伸手觸摸河流。

　　A quarter mile to the west, at the Louvre, is the Pont des Arts, a wood-slatted, iron pedestrian bridge that links the museum to the Institut de France, home of the Académie Française, on the other side of the river. A magnet for picnickers, it was once the place couples proclaimed their love by attaching metal padlocks. But the spindly, fragile footbridge was too weak to bear the weight of all this love. The city of Paris lined the bridge barriers with lock-resistant Plexiglas, and couples moved east to the Pont Neuf, until its barriers were replaced with corrugated plastic. But the love locks still sprout on odd spaces — between barriers on bridges, on lampposts and on heavy iron mooring rings all along the river.

　　盧浮宮以西四分之一英里處是藝術(shù)橋(Pont des Arts)，這是一座鐵構(gòu)人行橋，橋面由木板鋪成，將盧浮宮與河對岸的法蘭西學(xué)會(Institut de France)連接起來。法蘭西學(xué)會是法蘭西學(xué)術(shù)院(Académie Française)的所在地。藝術(shù)橋曾是情侶們用金屬掛鎖來示愛的地方，也吸引著許多野餐者。但是這座人行橋細(xì)長而又脆弱，承受不了那么多愛的重量。巴黎市在橋欄之間安裝了無法掛鎖的有機(jī)玻璃，情侶們只得向東遷移到新橋，直到那座橋的橋欄也裝上了波紋塑料。但是，愛之鎖仍然在一些奇怪的地方出現(xiàn)——橋上的柵欄之間，燈柱上，河邊的重鐵系舶環(huán)上。

　　Heading downstream, history buffs might like to walk over the Pont de la Concorde which joins the Place de la Concorde with the National Assembly. The bridge was built during the French Revolution using stones of the demolished Bastille, “so that the people could forever trample on the old fortress,” according to Rodolphe Perronet, the bridge’s engineer.

　　順流而下，歷史愛好者可能會走過協(xié)和橋(Pont de la Concorde)，它連接協(xié)和廣場和國民議會。這座橋是在法國大革命期間用拆毀的巴士底獄的石頭建造的，“這樣人們就可以永遠(yuǎn)踐踏這座古老的堡壘，”這座橋的工程師(Rodolphe Perronet)說。

　　The most elegant bridge in Paris

　　巴黎最優(yōu)雅的橋

　　Then comes the most elegant of Paris bridges: the Pont Alexandre III, a belle epoque confection linking the Invalides to the Champs-Élysées. Built for the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900, it was named in honor of the father of the visiting Russian czar, Nicholas II. Sculptures of full-figured, bare-breasted nymphs look out at the river from their perches at the bridge’s center. Gilded candelabra, trumpet-blowing angels, lion-taming cherubs, dolphins, starfish, sea monsters and birds proclaim joy. Faust, a nightclub, sits underneath the bridge on the Left Bank.

　　接下來是巴黎最優(yōu)雅的橋：亞歷山大三世橋(Pont Alexandre III)，它連接著榮軍院和香榭麗舍大道，是“美好時(shí)代”(belle epoque)遺留下來的精品。它是為1900年的巴黎博覽會建造的，以來訪的俄國沙皇尼古拉二世(Nicholas II)的父親命名。真人大小的裸胸女神雕像棲居在橋梁中心俯瞰河流。鍍金燭臺、吹號天使、馴服獅子的小天使、海豚、海星、海怪和鳥類的雕像無不是歡樂的象征。左岸一側(cè)的橋下有一家名叫“浮士德”的夜總會。

　　The Pont Alexandre III is so emblematic of Paris that when mayor Anne Hidalgo led a campaign to promote her city as the site for the 2024 Summer Olympics, she built a 12-meter diving board on the bridge and a floating running track alongside it to stage a show of Olympic sporting events. The Eiffel Tower was strategically visible in the background for the perfect photo frame.

　　亞歷山大三世橋堪稱巴黎的象征，為巴黎申辦2024年夏季奧運(yùn)會主辦城市時(shí)，市長安娜·伊達(dá)爾戈(Anne Hidalgo)在這座橋上建了一座12米跳臺，旁邊是一個浮動跑道，展示奧運(yùn)體育賽事。站在橋上，埃菲爾鐵塔在背景中非常醒目，可以拍出完美的照片。

　　The city of Paris also spends millions of dollars every year to light up its river banks, and at night, the bridges look like bright necklaces strung across the river. They show off the two schools of lighting: the Paris school, which bathes its subjects in warm, even light, and the Lyon school, which uses small spotlights to highlight details for dramatic effect. The decorations of Pont Alexandre III are lit with the pointillism of the Lyon school. So are the arches and hanging lamps of the Pont de Bercy, the high-relief sculptures on the Pont d’Austerlitz, and the medallions on the N monograms, in honor of Napoléon III, on the Pont au Change.

　　巴黎每年花費(fèi)數(shù)百萬美元為河岸照明，夜晚，這些橋看起來就像串在河上的明亮項(xiàng)鏈。它們展示了兩種照明風(fēng)格：巴黎派和里昂派，前者讓對象沐浴在溫暖、均勻的光線之中;后者則使用小聚光燈突出細(xì)節(jié)，達(dá)到戲劇性的效果。亞歷山大三世橋上的裝飾采用里昂派的點(diǎn)彩風(fēng)格照明。貝西橋(Pont de Bercy)上的拱門和懸燈、奧斯特里茨橋(Pont d’Austerlitz)上的高浮雕雕塑、兌換橋(Pont au Change)上紀(jì)念拿破侖三世(Napoleon III)的N字母圓雕飾也都是如此。

　　Gary Zuercher, a retired businessman and a lifelong photographer, was so passionate about the way the bridges look at night that he spent more than five years photographing them in black and white for a 190-page coffee-table book, “The Glow of Paris.” Because Paris isn’t fully dark in the summer months until about 11 p.m., he did most of his work during the winter. “I wanted to present the majesty of the Paris bridges in their most alluring setting,” he said. “Nighttime.”

　　退休商人、畢生從事攝影的加里·祖爾希(Gary Zuercher)熱愛這些橋梁在夜晚的樣子，他花了五年多的時(shí)間拍攝這些橋的黑白照片，收集為190頁的畫冊《巴黎的光輝》(The Glow of Paris)。因?yàn)樵谙奶斓膸讉�月里，巴黎要到晚上11點(diǎn)左右才會完全黑下來，他的大部分作品都是在冬天拍攝的�！拔蚁朐谧蠲匀说谋尘跋抡宫F(xiàn)巴黎大橋的雄偉壯觀，”他說。“那就是夜晚。”

　　By day, tourist boat rides on the Seine are interesting, of course, but at night, they become voyages of discovery. I take visitors on the Vedettes de Paris, a small bateau-mouche, because if we arrive early enough, we can nab a spot in the front of an upper deck. When the boat passes under the bridges, we can see how the lighting from underneath reveals the curves and angles of their underbellies.

　　白天在塞納河上乘坐游船當(dāng)然很有趣，但到了晚上，乘船游河就成了探索之旅。我?guī)ьI(lǐng)游客們搭乘巴黎觀光船(Vedettes de Paris)，這是一艘小型觀光船，如果到得足夠早，就能在上層甲板的前面占個位子。當(dāng)船從橋下經(jīng)過時(shí)，可以看到橋下的燈光會將橋梁下方的曲線和角度展現(xiàn)出來。

　　Tour guides on the bateaux-mouches will tell you that the Pont Marie is the lovers’ bridge. The story goes that if you make a wish as the boat slips under the bridge and keep the wish secret, it will be granted. One summer night, I took two female college students for a boat ride. As we approached the bridge, a recording announced: “If you’re with the person you love, kiss him or her under the bridge, make a wish, and your wish will come true.” One of the students closed her eyes and made a wish, even though her boyfriend was an ocean away.

　　觀光船上的導(dǎo)游會告訴你，瑪麗橋(Pont Marie)是一座戀人之橋。傳說如果你在船從橋下行駛而過的時(shí)候許個愿，并且不告訴別人，這個愿望就會實(shí)現(xiàn)。一個夏天的晚上，我?guī)е鴥蓚�女大學(xué)生乘坐觀光船游覽。當(dāng)我們接近大橋時(shí)，船上的錄音宣布：“如果你和愛人在一起，在橋下親吻他或她，再許個愿，你的愿望就會實(shí)現(xiàn)。”其中一個學(xué)生閉上眼睛許了個愿，盡管她的男友遠(yuǎn)隔重洋。

　　注：雙語全文源自紐約時(shí)報(bào)中文網(wǎng)

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