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Exploring Provence’s vast, rugged sprawl can be exhilarating — and daunting. From the salt marshes of the Camargue to storybook hilltop villages like Gordes to the lively Mediterranean city of Marseille, the famously picturesque French region offers an array of landscapes and experiences that could take months to uncover. Where to start? Arles and Avignon. Just 20 minutes apart by train, the Roman-era town of Arles and the medieval walled city of Avignon enfold a dense mix of architectural beauty, world-class art, sun-soaked Provençal gastronomy and Unesco World Heritage sites. Toss in ambitious new cultural spaces, a hint of urban cool and a high-speed rail link with Paris (about three hours away), and the result is a southern French smorgasbord that can be devoured in a weekend.
探索普羅旺斯地區(qū)高低不平的廣袤疆域,是令人興奮的事情,但同時也令人生畏。從卡馬格(Camargue)的鹽沼地,到戈爾德石頭村(Gordes)童話般的山頂村莊,再到充滿活力的地中海城市馬賽,這片素以風景如畫聞名的法國地區(qū),為游客帶來了目不暇給的景觀與感受,足以讓游客花上幾個月的時間去發(fā)掘。該從哪里開始好呢?我們推薦阿爾勒(Arles)和阿維尼翁(Avignon)。建于羅馬時期的小鎮(zhèn)阿爾勒與中世紀城墻環(huán)繞下的城都阿維尼翁之間相距不遠,乘坐火車僅需20分鐘便可抵達,兩地均集結了大量的壯麗建筑、頂級藝術、沐浴在陽光中的普羅旺斯美食和聯(lián)合國教科文組織世界遺產(chǎn)。將野心勃勃的新建文化空間,幾分都市的酷意和連通巴黎的高鐵(車程約三小時)盡數(shù)拋諸身后,便可在一個愉快的周末,愜意地享用一道由法國南部呈獻的文化混搭自助餐。
Starry Nightcap
星光下的睡前酒
A nocturnal walk quickly becomes an art history lesson. Heading west from Place Lamartine, you arrive at the riverside spot where van Gogh painted “Cafe Terrace at Night.” Strolling the east side of Place du Forum, you might recognize the scene from “The Night Café,” marked by a signboard. For drinks, avoid the square’s tourist traps and instead go around the corner to Baràvin, a cheerful wine bar, for a glass of medium-bodied local Château Mont-Redon red (4.50 euros).
夜間漫步很快變成了一堂生動的藝術史課程。從拉馬丁廣場(Place Lamartine)出發(fā)往西走,便會抵達梵高當年畫出《夜晚露天咖啡座》(Cafe Terrace at Night)的那處河濱。在集會廣場(Place du Forum)的東邊閑逛,說不定能認出《夜間咖啡館》(The Night Café)中的畫面,那里也有一塊標識牌。酒水方面,不妨避開廣場上?佑慰偷暮诘辏浇锹湮恢玫腂aràvin看看,這是一間氣氛歡快的紅酒吧,可以品嘗一杯當?shù)氐暮诙瓷骄魄f(Château Mont-Redon)釀造的中等酒體紅葡萄酒(4.50歐元)。
Books, Pillows and Bowties
書、枕頭與領結
Whether you’re desperate for a skateboard-shaped chopping board or just a coffee-table book about, say, breasts, People’s Paradise provides. One of several hip fashion and design shops near Place St.-Didier, the lifestyle emporium outfits you for summer with ultralight, hand-dyed T-shirts (30 euros) from the Provençal brand Red Soul, and red rolled-up shorts (59 euros) by Elevenparis. Kooky and colorful, the namesake shop of Isabelle Erizé sells her lacy, tasseled Baroque-style handbags (25 euros) and cushions mixing stripes and leopard print (27 euros). CQFD boutique, dedicated to indie French brands, adds wooden sunglasses (160 to 190 euros) from Shelter and wooden bow ties (65 to 70 euros) by Bowtify.
不管你急切渴望的是一塊滑雪板狀的菜板,還是一本談論胸部的茶幾書,People’s Paradise都能滿足你。這家大型生活方式百貨商場,是圣迪迪埃廣場(Place Saint-Didier)附近的幾家嘻哈時尚設計店的其中一間,在夏季向顧客出售普羅旺斯本地品牌Red Soul的超輕薄手染T恤(30歐元),還有Elevenparis的紅色卷腿短褲。伊莎貝爾·埃利澤(Erizé de Souza)以自己名字命名的商店設計古怪,色彩艷麗,專售由她設計的巴洛克手袋(25歐元)和靠墊,前者綴滿蕾絲與流蘇,后者則飾以混雜著條紋與豹紋的印花圖案(27歐元)。CQFD精品店專售法國的獨立品牌,為顧客帶來Shelter的木制太陽鏡(160~190歐元)和Bowtify的木制領結(65~70歐元)。
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